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Mission Codename: High Aloft

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Return to Red Zeppelin Winery, where rock ‘n roll winemaker, Stillman ’Swilly Idol’ Brown, has just released his deep and delicious new Cabernet. If the wine is a great as reputed, secure an ample allotment for our Paso-loving Operatives

Mission Status: Accomplished

Current Winery: Red Zeppelin Winery

Wine Subject: 2007 Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon

Winemaker: Stillman Brown

Backgrounder:

Paso Robles, in California’s Southern Central Coast region (San Luis Obisbo County) is one of California’s oldest, but now up and coming wine growing regions. The first vines were planted in the late 1700s by the Spanish missionaries. Today, the region is host to dozens of world-class wineries.

Paso’s unique climate, perhaps influences its vine more than any other area in California. The hot, dry weather that is only minimally effected by coastal fog and wine results in grapes that are more concentrated in flavor and intensity. This climate makes Paso uniquely suited to grow the big red varietals including Zinfandel, Syrah and as in this wine, Cabernet Sauvignon.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Dark ruby red with brighter ruby edges and a darkening heart of pure garnet. This wine shows off a tightly springy surface when swirled. On settling, the wine leaves behind thin, color-stained tears – which give a preview of the rich concentration to come on the palate

Smell – Dark and warm, led by blackberry tart, smoky blueberry preserve, black plum, dark fig and hawthorn. These sit atop soft oak, dusty bramble and mild spice

Feel – Light and medium bodied across the front of the palate, then fine grained tannins dig inward from the outer edges, adding a gradual mineral dryness that makes the mouth water

Taste – Dark fruit here as well, with blackberry juice, black cherry, plum and cassis. These mix with oak and a hint of minty spice

Finish – Super long, bright, sweet and then finally softly tart and clean as flavors tail off slowly

Conclusion – The 2007 Red Zeppelin Winery Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon is a bold wine with a balanced feel and a clean finish that ends with a mouthwatering reminder to take another generous sip. Not as brash and concentrated as some Paso Cabs, this wine shows great poise without being overpowering – or boring! Enjoy this wine on its own, or with a great meal. The fine acidity in this wine makes it an easy companion for many foods. I’d pair it with pasta Bolognese. In fact, I think that I will, tonight!

Decant for at least 30 minutes for best results.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Stillman Brown

DATE OF BIRTH: Oct 6 57

PLACE OF BIRTH: Berkeley CA

WINE EDUCATION: I’m a UC Berkeley grad, but my wine education is from the University of Bordeaux; that is to say, Professor Emile Peynaud’s classic “Knowing And Making Wine” was first published in English in 1984, the year I entered the wine business. I must have read that book at least a dozen times.

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Founder and winemaker, Jory Winery: 1986-2003; founder and winemaker, Red Zeppelin Winery, 2003-; founder and winemaker, Stillman Wines, 2001-. “Stillman” is my first name, and also my father’s, and I save it for special wines that might not fit into the Red Zeppelin portfolio. Of course, my dad gets free wine as a royalty payment for the use of his name. Ha!

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Start with superior grapes and don’t screw up. In the winery, I’m progressive/scientific. I’m not an additive freak, but I’m certainly not hands-off. Some bugs are great, others are lethal.

SIGNATURE VARIETAL: Syrah. Though I love Corton clone Chardonnay and 777 clone Pinot.

CAREER HIGHLIGHT: Winning the ‘Syrah Shootout’ at Hospice du Rhone last year, with a wine from a vineyard I planned myself, that had a government-approved label showing the death of Elvis Presley.

CAREER HIGHLIGHT: My annual events, unquestionably acknowledged as the wildest winery parties in California. Yes, you’re invited. (Details at WetZeppelin.com.)

WINEMAKER QUOTE: “Lord Almighty, I feel my temperature rising.” Then I turn on the tank’s cooling jacket.

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What follows is our previous interview of the ever elusive Stillman Brown.

WINEMAKER INTERVIEW

AGENT RED: Greetings, Stillman. We love you, we love your wines, and we are thrilled to be working with you again. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

WINEMAKER: Hola, dude.

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

WINEMAKER: When I was in high school in NY my father was a senior Pepsi exec – stop laughing, we were the only family among the big shots that didn’t have a Pepsi vending machine in the house, we just didn’t like it – and in order to get Pepsi into the USSR, Pepsi agreed to distribute Stolichnaya Vodka in the US. To do that they had to buy a NY company that was also a wine importer, etc etc . . . anyway, there were dinner parties at our house where some really fantastic wines were served. My mother, a native Californian like myself, drank Almaden, but that interested me somewhat less.

RED: And where did you learn the most about winemaking?

WINEMAKER: From Peynaud’s book, and by osmosis; drinking and asking questions of other Santa Clara/Santa Cruz Mountain winemakers.

RED: What is your winemaking style or philosophy?

WINEMAKER: . See above. Plant something that wasn’t there before, and if it works, you can then start with superior grapes. Don’t assume that you can just pick great grapes and crush them, and magically get a great wine that doesn’t need to be looked after.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

WINEMAKER: There’s definitely no single influence; I learned from everyone from the late Dave Bennion, who founded Ridge, to Adam LaZarre, the Central Coast ubervintner.

RED: We are good friends with Adam, as you know. Please don’t reveal his Wine Spies Agent Name, though. It’s too shocking! Tell me, how long have you been making wine?

WINEMAKER: 25 harvests in California, 8 in New Mexico (concurrently). I also have consulted in Arizona.

RED: Who do you make wine for?

WINEMAKER: Fans, friends, family and fruit flies. Other winemakers and critics can be in the first category, but only if their palates allow it.

RED: Tell me, what makes the west side of Paso Robles so special?

WINEMAKER: It’s the rockiest part of Paso Robles, and one of the coolest. Temperature wise, of course. Much of Paso Robles is too hot and fertile for the varietals planted there.

RED: What is one piece of advice that you would give to someone that is considering a career as a winemaker?

WINEMAKER: Make absolutely sure that you have the nose and palate for it, can identify basic characters and flaws that you’ll encounter, and yet still artistically appreciate great wines.

RED: Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today

WINEMAKER: I planned and planted this small block of grapes on the west side of Paso Robles, immediately south of L’Aventure, to 2310 vines of Syrah and 500 vines of Alicante Bouschet; I was told that it was the first planting of the latter, a cross between Grenache and Petit Bouschet, in the county in over sixty years. It’s a steep east facing hill that I named the Hill of Graceland in honor of the Australian property and of Elvis, who never drank wine or performed in Australia. I picked in late October of 2005 – immediately before the first rains, in fact – and blended with a small amount of Cabernet Sauvignon from another Paso Robles vineyard, it was then aged in one year old Seguin Moreau barrels and bottled eighteen months later. It’s very big (32 proof) and full of black fruits, pepper, vanilla and oak; with some fine tannins, it formerly took an hour or so to open up, but it’s been maturing in the bottle. It’s probably the most awarded wine I’ve made this decade.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

WINEMAKER: Dry aged beef.

RED: Please share one thing about yourself that few people know.

WINEMAKER: That’s tough, because I’m an inveterate babbler; and Facebook has just made it worse. I suspect that everyone who knows me, knows too much about me. But for Wine Spies, I will admit that I like punk rock, regularly go into mosh pits, and have been known to stage dive.

RED: We appreciate that! What is your favorite ‘everyday’ or table wine?

WINEMAKER: Pinot Noir, which I have planted but don’t currently make.

RED: How would you recommend that people approach your wines, or wine in general?

WINEMAKER: Parched, with a corkscrew and a large glass. In general, relaxed; even if you’re going to be analytical, it should still be fun.

RED: If you could choose any one wine to drink (regardless of price or availability), what would it be?

WINEMAKER: La Tache, I suppose.

RED: What is the one question that I should have asked you, and what is your answer to that question?

WINEMAKER: How was your annual winery party?
Wet Zeppelin was the wildest party wine country has ever seen. Several hundred people showed up, and after six bands and at least sixty gallons of wine, people were jumping off the pier, climbing on the roof, fighting in and outside the hall, and driving into public buildings. Jealous husbands threw chairs through walls, drunken security guards staggered away, letting yahoos in the back door to steal wine and get in wild mosh pits, with punks climbing on stage until they were kicked off. Large numbers of uniformed officers arrived, and politely suggested that we shut down (with 3 more bands still to go, including the infamous Dread Zeppelin) just before midnight. We raised thousands for our wine and viticulture scholarship, and everyone that didn’t get arrested or taken off in an ambulance had a great time!
See you next year?

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and about your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

WINEMAKER: In the immortal words of Elvis Presley, who showed us the consequence of a wine-free lifestyle, “Thankyouverymuch!”

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Stillman Brown, the winemaker at Red Zeppelin Winery can usually be found rocking out in Cayucos, CA.